To be completely honest i spent far more time surfing this month than anything , the waves just kept coming and i couldn't help but get out there! The eternal dilemma , to shoot or to surf and i unashamedly choose the later again and again.
A healthy drenching of south and north swell in equal measure meant no shortage of caves to chase up and down the coast in the unseasonably warm water .
Thou with the death of daylight savings (RIP) and the purple monster looming from the bowels of the deep south i fear that warm water will soon be a distant memory. My 3x2 will be hung up to gather dust for another 8 months and i shall be forced to find my 5 mm booties i ditched in October. But its not all bad eh !
Consistent swells and offshore winds will certainly soften the blow of donning so much rubber you could supply Durex for 20 years.
So get a hood, harden the f&$# up and i will catch you out there!
Post surf trek
100 meters above
The good shapes