Fuck yes summer , fuck yes!
But as my pasty skin turns red and the masses flock to the beach , the surf has gone all but dormant . A couple of nice swells at the start of the month has been reduced to a mare dribble .
But not to worry there looks to be some swell early next week , so get the chores done over this flat as fuck weekend and lock in a few after work sessions next week!
The jolly fat man shall arrive soon and with him will come the all out panic and chaos that is Christmas. Women work meticulously hard to ensure Chrissy dinner lives up to expectations ,whilst men drink beer and tell tales of uncrowded barrels from long ago to children who just do not give a shit.
What ever you're Christmas plans are , i hope you manage to find some good waves and weather where ever they take you.
It has been a rad year here for me and id like to thank everyone who has supported me in one way or another , it really means a lot !
I am really excited for the year a head and looking forward to developing new techniques to build on this plat form.
So have a safe and happy Chrissy break and ill see you out there!